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Why Insulation Matters in Seattle

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  Published in House and Home on Tuesday, December 9th 2025 at 11:11 GMT by Seattle Times

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Do I Have Enough Insulation? A Seattle‑Focused Quick‑Guide

When the Seattle Times’ “Ask Angi” column received a question about whether a reader’s home was sufficiently insulated, the response quickly turned into a practical walkthrough of what “enough” really means in the Pacific Northwest’s unique climate. Below is a summary of that article, expanded with useful context from the links the original piece references, so you can confidently audit your own walls, attic, and basement.

1. Why Insulation Matters in Seattle

Seattle’s weather is notoriously mild on the surface: cool, wet winters and warm, dry summers. However, the micro‑climate inside a home can be vastly different. Poor insulation traps moisture in walls and attic spaces, encourages mold growth, and lets winter heat escape while summer heat infiltrates—leading to higher heating and cooling bills. The Energy Department recommends that homes in the Pacific Northwest have a baseline of R‑38 insulation in the attic and R‑13 in the walls. (The Seattle Department of Construction & Inspections actually mandates these R‑values for new construction and major renovations.)

The “Ask Angi” article emphasized that while Seattle’s moderate climate means you might not feel “freezing” in winter, the cumulative energy loss can still be costly. A well‑insulated home is cheaper to run, more comfortable, and more valuable on the market.

2. How to Determine What You Already Have

a. Locate the insulation and read the label
Batts and rolls usually come stamped with an R‑value. For instance, a 2‑inch thick batts might be labeled R‑12. In older homes, insulation could be fiberglass or cellulose that’s settled over time. The article advises measuring the depth: for fiberglass batts, 1‑inch thick equals R‑3.5; for blown‑in cellulose, 1‑inch equals R‑2.5. For spray‑foam, the R‑value is higher—approximately R‑6 per inch of open‑cell foam.

b. Inspect for gaps and compression
Even if you have the right R‑value, compression or gaps can drastically reduce effectiveness. A visual inspection of exposed walls, attic hatches, and floor joists can reveal missing or unevenly distributed insulation.

c. Use a quick DIY test
The article links to a “Home Energy Audit Checklist” on the Seattle Times website that suggests a simple blower‑door test. This involves attaching a fan to an exterior door to create a pressure differential; a properly insulated house will maintain a stable temperature inside while the fan is running.

3. When You’re Short on Insulation

If you discover that you’re below the recommended R‑values, the “Ask Angi” response offers several practical upgrade paths:

The article cites a local contractor’s estimate: adding 8 inches of attic insulation can cost around $400–$600, but the payback is usually within 3–5 years through energy savings. Seattle homeowners often choose closed‑cell spray foam for basement and crawl‑space applications because it also serves as a vapor barrier.

4. Sealing Air Leaks—The Missing Piece

The Seattle Times article stresses that air sealing and insulation are not the same thing. Even a house with perfect R‑values can feel drafty if there are unsealed penetrations—attic hatches, window frames, or HVAC registers. The “Ask Angi” piece references a linked guide on “DIY Sealing Techniques” that recommends using spray foam or expanding foam sealants for small gaps, and weatherstripping for doors and windows.

The combination of proper R‑values and tight seals can reduce HVAC energy usage by up to 25%. The article suggests performing a simple “towel test”: hold a damp towel in a corner or near a window; if heat escapes in a breeze, you have an air leak.

5. Understanding Local Codes and Incentives

Seattle has a Home Energy Code (HEC) that sets minimum insulation requirements. If you’re doing major renovations, you’ll need to get a permit and pass an inspection. The “Ask Angi” article references a Seattle Times link to the city’s building department page, where you can download the HEC requirements and find a list of licensed contractors.

There are also financial incentives. The article mentions the Federal Tax Credit for Energy‑Efficient Upgrades (currently 26% of the cost) and local utility rebates for attic insulation. A link to the Puget Sound Energy (PSE) website offers a calculator that estimates your savings based on your current energy usage and the proposed insulation upgrade.

6. Bottom Line

The “Ask Angi” question boiled down to: “Do I have enough insulation?” The answer isn’t a simple yes or no; it depends on your specific construction, current R‑values, and how tightly your home seals. In Seattle, a practical approach is:

1. Measure your existing insulation R‑value for attic and walls.
2. Compare with the Seattle code baseline (R‑38 attic, R‑13 walls).
3. Add additional insulation or replace old batts where needed.
4. Seal any air leaks to maximize the efficiency of the insulation.
5. Consult a licensed contractor or use the city’s inspection resources if you’re making significant changes.

The article concluded that even a modest upgrade can yield noticeable comfort improvements and measurable energy savings—especially important in Seattle’s damp, chill‑prone winters. If you’re unsure, a professional home energy audit can pinpoint exact deficiencies and recommend cost‑effective solutions. After all, a well‑insulated home is not just a good investment for your wallet, but also a comfortable refuge from the Pacific Northwest’s weather swings.