Tue, February 17, 2026

Versace Appoints Pieter Mulier as New Creative Director

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Milan, Italy - February 17th, 2026 - The Italian luxury powerhouse Versace announced today the appointment of Pieter Mulier as its new Creative Director, succeeding Daniel Roseberry. This move signifies a potential stylistic pivot for the brand, known for its bold, often overtly sensual aesthetic, towards a more minimalist and refined approach. The fashion world is buzzing with anticipation for Mulier's debut collection, slated for Fall 2026, which promises to reveal the new direction he envisions for the iconic house.

Roseberry's departure, revealed earlier in 2026 after a four-year tenure, had already left a void. He took the reins in 2022 from Donatella Versace, who made the strategic decision to relinquish day-to-day design oversight. While Roseberry's reign was marked by dramatic silhouettes, powerful tailoring and a return to a somewhat darker, more gothic romanticism, Mulier's aesthetic is distinctly different. He is celebrated for his clean lines, focus on fabric quality, and a quiet confidence that eschews ostentation.

Mulier's career trajectory is built on a foundation of precision and subtle luxury. He served as Senior Designer at Jil Sander, a brand synonymous with minimalist chic, for many years. There, he honed his skills in creating deceptively simple yet exquisitely crafted pieces. His subsequent role at Ann Demeulemeester saw him as Creative Director, where he further developed his ability to blend intellectual design with wearable elegance. Observers noted a focus on volume, texture and an almost poetic quality in his work for Demeulemeester - qualities that, while seemingly at odds with a strict minimalist label, demonstrate a deep understanding of design principles and a commitment to artistry. This experience demonstrates a capacity to build a complete aesthetic world, something Versace will be relying on.

This appointment raises questions about the future of Versace's brand identity. For decades, Versace has been defined by its unapologetic glamour, vibrant prints, and overtly sexualized imagery. Gianni Versace's original vision, built upon a celebration of the body and a flamboyant embrace of color, became a global phenomenon. Donatella Versace, despite evolving the aesthetic over time, largely maintained this core DNA. Roseberry subtly shifted this, leaning into a more powerful and constructed silhouette, but still retaining much of the brand's signature boldness. Mulier's arrival suggests a move further away from this legacy, potentially targeting a clientele that values discretion and quality over overt displays of wealth and extravagance.

Industry analysts suggest this change could be strategic. While Versace remains a powerful and profitable brand, the luxury market is evolving. There's a growing demand for understated luxury - pieces that signal quality and taste through craftsmanship and materials, rather than logos and embellishments. Brands like The Row and Loro Piana have successfully tapped into this trend, and Versace may be attempting to broaden its appeal by courting a similar customer base. However, abandoning its heritage entirely would be a risk. Mulier will face the challenge of balancing innovation with respect for the brand's history.

The pressure on Mulier is immense. He is not simply taking over a design role; he's inheriting a cultural icon. The first collection will be intensely scrutinized, analyzed for any clues about his long-term vision. Will he completely overhaul the Versace aesthetic, or will he introduce minimalist elements gradually, integrating them into the existing framework? Will he continue to utilize the brand's signature motifs - the Medusa head, Greek key patterns - or will he strip them away in favor of a cleaner, more contemporary look? These are the questions on the minds of fashion editors, buyers, and consumers alike.

Beyond the aesthetic considerations, Mulier's leadership will also impact Versace's broader business strategy. His design philosophy will inevitably influence the brand's marketing campaigns, store design, and even its approach to social media. A shift towards minimalism could necessitate a recalibration of these elements to align with the new brand image. The coming months will be crucial as Versace prepares for this new chapter under the direction of Pieter Mulier.


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